Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller

Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave

Peter Heller

336 pages first pub 2010 (editions)

nonfiction memoir travel adventurous medium-paced
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Description

With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; o...

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