Reviews

Hope in a Jar: The Making of America's Beauty Culture by Kathy Peiss

beachybookstack's review

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3.0

The book gave very good historical context and thought to the early cosmetics industry. Unfortunately, similar to Peiss' "Cheap Amusements", it feels more like a history book.
This was used for a discussion class and gave us plenty to compare with today. The time spent on the business history was lost on me because I was much more interested in the shifting social values placed on products as well as the ways in which beauty practices were transmitted.

mattie5's review against another edition

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informative reflective medium-paced

4.5

timtamslam13's review

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5.0

the most comprehensive history and analysis i've read about beauty culture. i wish it didn't end with a reductive take on femme lesbians but here we are

nightwater32's review

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3.0

An interesting read on the history of makeup and skin care regimens from their introduction in the marketplace of the mid-1800s to the modern usage. As one who uses little makeup today but remembers Avon ladies, discussions with parents over what and how much to wear, and plastic play makeup as well as beauty sets for practice, I found much of the history familiar even in my own life. It was interesting to see how the idea of "natural" and heavy or colorful makeup and what that supposedly says about a woman has shifted pendulum-style through the years. I also appreciated the comparisons between the makeup cultures of black and white women, the oft implied racism, and the way that advertising has been selling the idea of "the ideal" for all women in ways both good and bad for a long time.

cmbhusker's review

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3.0

This is a scholarly look at the beauty industry in the U.S. I don't think general readers would enjoy this very much, unless that particular subject is of very deep interest to them. Peiss uses some really interesting sources (her examination of African-American hair and beauty products, and the complicated and exploitative ways in which they were related to beauty companies marketing to white women is fascinating, for example.) The writing is unfortunately a bit dry, and could have benefitted from some stronger editing, as it feels like the argument for each chapter isn't particularly clear, and she's writing in circles.

It was an interesting read for me though, and I may use part of it in a Women in the US class in the future.

jjuanamtzz's review against another edition

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Really interesting, but a hard read. Didn't have time to go through all of it and understand 

architaxb's review

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5.0

I really enjoyed reading this book! While it is quite long and heavy, I appreciated the exhaustive efforts put in, in researching these topics.

I appreciated how the author doesn't focus her discussion solely on upper class, White women, and rather intersects discussions of class, race, and social status into who wears makeup, and how they do. I do wish there had been a greater intersection of discussion of culture, but I recognize that this book was published in 1999, and how that time period influences the contents.

dwellordream's review against another edition

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informative medium-paced

4.25

apparentlyalix's review against another edition

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4.0

Put shortly, this book is basically the history of makeup. I was very happy to come across Peiss's work, because I've always been curious to know where such a standard practice comes from, and why it's so widespread (mostly) amongst women. Ironically, the author doesn't use makeup, but neither do I.

The book finishes on a note regarding "The Beauty Myth" by Naomi Wolf, which I've intentionally read right before this one. Peiss does take a softer approach to the politics of beauty culture than Wolf does, providing much more context and history to beauty culture itself. Beauty culture is not composed as much from harsh capitalism and oppression towards women as it seems, as that has only been implemented in more recent years.
I must say, however, that even in its early stages, there has always been an element of shame associated with the practice of beautifying, which is discussed early on in the book as well. But I don't think makeup or beauty themselves are at fault here, as women are and have been shamed for lots of things, one would even say for existing.
On that note, the book doesn't explicitly discuss the political and feminist debate over women's oppression in regards to makeup (understandably, as that debate came much later), but rather discusses the racial implications of the business in much more detail. She even mentions queer culture and their impact on beauty culture as well.

Peiss does try to work a middle ground between existing political takes on makeup. It's not all as horrible as it seems, nor as wonderful as they sell it. The book is meticulously researched, although most of the examples sadly comes from advertising, which is inherently biased. However, I did not get the feeling I was reading biased theory. Peiss makes a clear distinction between promising copy and reality.

I'm not sure how to draw a conclusion, as I mostly agree with both "The Beauty Myth" and "Hope in a Jar". It would be easy to say that sexism influences lots of practices and finds ways to opress women, black people and other through things and practices such as makeup, that aren't inherently sexist or oppressive per se. But as all phenomena in society, culture intertwines itself with the things it interacts with. Long story short, it's complicated.

This isn't a book for everyone, though. It's a highly researched academic piece. Even I took long enough to finish it all, and I also needed some context before reading it (such as "The Beauty Myth" itself, and I also watched "Self made" on Netflix which I recommend!). It does, however, make you think. Which is the point of non-fiction in the first place :)

readnicoleread's review against another edition

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5.0

I was pleasantly surprised by the scope of this book. Peiss covers the intersections of beauty and beauty culture in the U.S. with gender roles, race, ethnicity, class, and sexuality, and also describes the effects of development in consumer culture, mass marketing, fashion, feminism, and other social and economic trends. Most of her treatment focuses on the adoption of beauty culture and cosmetics into the mainstream culture during the late 19th and early 20th centuries - my one criticism would be that the final chapter covering the last 50ish years felt rushed. Still, Peiss provides a solid historical foundation from which to analyze and understand more modern shifts; for example, it's fascinating to see how rhetoric around beauty and femininity from those eras is still echoed today.