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celltheory's review
4.0
I really do love a good lyrical book about sports and this mostly delivered. I was more interested in the actual breakdown/comparison of addiction and surfing, less so the anecdotal stories, but they didn't feel like they dragged or anything. I am fascinated by the mentality of surfers contrasted to their reputation because I never thought they actually matched and this was a completely different spin on something I wasn't aware of, so that was cool. Big wave surfing will never not be insane to me and I do genuinely wish I felt that passionate about something.
sealungs's review
adventurous
dark
emotional
slow-paced
3.75
I really do love a good lyrical book about sports and this mostly delivered. I was more interested in the actual breakdown/comparison of addiction and surfing, less so the anecdotal stories, but they didn't feel like they dragged or anything. I am fascinated by the mentality of surfers contrasted to their reputation because I never thought they actually matched and this was a completely different spin on something I wasn't aware of, so that was cool. Big wave surfing will never not be insane to me and I do genuinely wish I felt that passionate about something.
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